SS22: Simone Rocha.
Within the walls of London’s oldest Parish church - the ethereal Great St Bart’s, with its sprawling stone arches and intricate medieval architecture - here, Simone Rocha chose to present her Spring/Summer 2022 collection. An appropriately ornate setting for the regal collection she was to show, but a far cry from the rebellious biker-like ballerinas that we saw in her last collection.
Since the arrival of her second daughter, Noah Rose, Rocha’s outlook on her designs has changed immensely – choosing to share this returned onset of early motherhood by channelling it into her recent collection. Embracing the experience and all its attributes, the good, the bad and the unspoken, into her garments; “baby teeth and lack of sleep, communion dress, embellished breast, distressed,” lists Rocha obscurely in her press release. Nursing bras, intricately adorned in daisy-shaped jewels, and various nightie-like dresses, that open at the back and front for ease, noticeably emerge through the collection, as do several strong references to communion dresses and Sunday best clothing, with long, white ankle-length robes and tailored blazer-jackets. As if Rocha has taken this intimate tradition of a christening and transformed it into an extensive, elaborate and desirable collection.
The Irish designer’s beloved tulle and delicate lace showed a return too, this time crafted into rotund, frilled dresses that balloon out at the sides – like tutus almost – matched with puffed, equally over-exaggerated billowing sleeves. And as always, each look is meticulously designed right down to the exact, minute detailing; accessorised with embellished knee-length socks, pearl-encrusted platform boots, embroidered lace edging and 3D polygon-like clutches - an evolution of last season’s beloved giant pearl bags.
Perhaps her most personal collection yet, Rocha’s voice is clear: new-found motherhood isn’t something that should be shied away from but rather embraced, panegyrised, and rightfully respected for the reality that it is. The powerhouse Simone Rocha is back - and what a triumphant return.
Writer Susie Lethbridge.
